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Derek Dayan
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pulling tubes
Posted: 1/6/2012 11:42:10 AM
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The technique i have been using for pulling tubes is tube encasement. I have yet to try the stick stack technique. It usually takes me between an hour and a half to two hours to make one pull. What is everyone's opinion on how to pull tubes? Whats more effective, stick stack or tube encasement?
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Skiin Ian
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 1/6/2012 1:50:57 PM
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Vacuum encasement is the fastest for me. I cut my color rods to length to match a point with a strong blowtube and open end. An open point (no handle) is inserted as a core inside of the color rods and larger open point. Think of it as two test tubes sleeved into each other with rods in between, and a blowtube handle on the large outside tube on the tapered end. Heat open end opposite blowtube and use trim shears to clean up the end and receive another blowtube. Weld on a blow tube to the newly made end this is permanent so make it clean. Now hook up a blowhose and swivel to the original blowtube and connect to a shop vac or other vacuum source. Turn on the suck and melt from new handle to old. Reheat and pull. I do mine on 50x5 outer and 25x4 inner. Once rods are cut it takes me about 45min to an hour to make points put together heat and pull. 5 pulls a day is good for me. Start short and work up. 5 inch rods are easier to work than 10 inch, but once you get it down 10 inch is no prob. I also use bench rollers during this process, definitely recommended. Dichro, Stringers, custom canes, can all be used as well as color rods. Fuming colors (high in silver or gold, like Amber purple, blue moon, etc will bleed so be aware.
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Skiin Ian
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 1/6/2012 1:52:29 PM
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A big hot torch also helps!
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Jagged Edge Glass
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 1/7/2012 12:25:39 AM
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Great method Skiin. Going to try that soon. Thanks.
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Derek Dayan
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 1/7/2012 9:12:01 AM
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thanks for the tip. The vacuam idea is genius. Just have one more question? Is the inside diamiter big enough to stretch after melted in? When i pull tubes, I have 40 mm of inside diamiter for stretching aposed to 17 mm inside diamiter. Was wondering if it effect your pull or it evens out? I do like the idea of the center tube though apposed to just colors inside the tube. But i will try as soon as i fit vac to blow hose.
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Last edited by Derek Dayan on 1/7/2012 9:15 AM. Total Edits: 1.
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Jagged Edge Glass
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 1/7/2012 2:05:55 PM
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Yes, depending on what size sticks you should get more. Plus the color will be incased in clear in and out so much less cracking ect. I normally dont even put my incased stacks in kiln first to heat up unless its cold out. Being incased makes them take alot less stress. You can just start working with it. Do that with a normal stack and most of the time it will crack all the way down a line or around. I hope that hels a little.
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Skiin Ian
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 1/7/2012 4:48:45 PM
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You can blow the tube out to whatever diameter you want before streching. You don't have to stretch it all at once, just keep it all hot.
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Glowin Glass
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Last edited by Glowin Glass on 4/15/2012 6:10 PM. Total Edits: 2.
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Basho
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 4/10/2012 4:57:27 AM
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glowin glass-nice vids. Are u on a scorpion or sidewinder?
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Glowin Glass
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 4/10/2012 1:09:34 PM
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scorpion! check out my profile.
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Derek Dayan
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Re: pulling tubes
Posted: 5/6/2012 10:55:53 AM
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Hey glowin glass, i appreciated the video you posted. I still only have used this technique once to try it out, but still feel more comfortable with tube in-casement. I do plan on continuing to pull tubes this way, but gotta dismantle my shop and find a new one. I plan on pulling tubes using 2 1/2" tubing for outer, and 1 1/2" for the inner tube, using 20 sticks of color. I figure it will be more effective to pull bigger tubes with this technique. Also being a solo glass blower can make it difficult to pull a tube. Especially by the time your finished making the tube and just got done hugging a torch. Me and my brother have come up with a great way to pull tubes solo.
Because i have been laying color and 7mm cleer over 2" tubing, I dont have a blow tubes on both sides. I have a few designated handles for pulling tubes. I have been doing it with a 10mm rod and have a series of gathers on the end sizing up to 1 1/2". I know it is jerry rigged but seems to never break on me if you do it right. Should just use 1" rod, would be safer. And on the other end of the handle i make a durable thick loop. Its alot stronger then you would think. Once i finish making the tube I add the handle which was preheated in kiln. Then I blast the whole tube pull it out the flame give a little pull to try making it even, for when you pull it. I have a heavy duty hook screwed into my work bench, which is really heavy. Then when i feel its ready i hook the loop on the handle and start pulling. I don't use my muscles really until im trying to stretch the last cooling bits. I just lien my body wight to give it a long persistent pull. I have my stool to the side of were i pull with a graphite pad on it, placed generely were i think the middle of the pull will be. I also i have a and hand torch with a heat defense pad ready where i will be finished pulling the tube. Once the tube has cooled enough place it on stool. Turn on hand torch and quickly pull the ends off the tube using stool to help. If the your ends are still thick of course. But if you manage to eventually get a straight tube then pull off the sections with the stools aid. Then if you have to go back and hand pull the thick ends Which were re heated in kiln.
This technique is very effective but also very risky. There all kinds of small mistakes that could cause the tube to fall on floor and break. And can get pricey. This is my Favorite way to pull tubes so maybe it might help out the solo folks.
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